Day 5: 48 miles

We were glad this was a shorter day as it was a rather soggy day out on the road. It didn’t take us long to notice that we were now on the ring of Kerry route and that it was indeed a tourist attraction as there were a lot of coaches out but also the roads were better for the coaches.

We passed a couple of very laden touring bikes on this section, a tray of eggs on the front and everything. It was not long before we stopped in Sneem with a view of the river for tea and food to warm up and the laden tourers came into the same café later on. They were intending on cycling the whole route in six weeks and were writing copious notes on their travels. I’m sure that six weeks of camping and cycling could be testing for any relationship, but they did seem quite happy.

The river in Sneem

We then headed to West Cove and stopped for more tea (you may be sensing a theme here, yes we are powered by tea, but hey we weren’t rushing anywhere). They also did the best quiche that I have ever had.

Our only climb of the day was then up through the Coomakesta Pass which then dropped down into Waterville. On the hillside on the way down to Waterville I could see what looked to be a stone circle but when I looked it up later was the Loher Stone Fort and dates to the 9th century.

Our soggy day on the Kerry peninsular

We came into Waterville, and there was a Charlie Chaplin theme going on here with a statue, paintings on a wall and shops or accommodation named after him. The village was one of his favourite holiday locations, and he visited many times.

We picked up food here and cycled the last 8 miles to Skellig Hostel. This was rather fancy to be calling itself a hostel and seemed a very new build, we were offered fresh home baked apple cake on arrival (‘we like to try and make a different cake every day’) and made the perfect location to catch up on some reading with our short cycling day.

One of the many Charlie Chaplin’s in Waterville

To Be Continued…